Throughout my career, one thing hasn’t changed: brand decks. Specifically, the pdf page that pinpoints where the company should sit on a chart of adjacent mega brands. No matter who you are or what you do, Celine, Jil Sander, Loewe, Prada, and The Row are regarded as ideal neighbours. Type them up, add logos, export, attach and send… to retailers, collaborators, and potential investors. Or confidently point to the page during wholesale meetings.
These conglomerate names have been haunting the ‘brand positioning’ page of every PDF and business plan I have seen. This homogeneous list seems to have stagnated in the minds of fashion professionals as the ultimate pinnacle of success—the arrival at your dream destination.
Most of us continue to be inspired by these ‘heroes’, brands that have been put on a pedestal by others—their success is further cemented in our minds by advertisers, educators, and a daily dose of social media. We are subtly, but constantly, pressured to be perceived as ‘worthy’ in comparison to the practice of these labels: aesthetically stunning, but outdated, predictable, and unsustainable in business.
My concern lies with these mega maisons being overly referenced by small- to medium-sized independents as a template for excellent taste and business, without deeper reflection on the relevance of these corporations’ histories and context.
It is undeniable that names like Prada, Loewe and The Row are industry behemoths, and we should absolutely appreciate the high-end craftsmanship which they help keep alive, but they exist in a different stratosphere: they are a reference to keep on the periphery of one’s inspiration, not the epicentre. Yes, they cross paths with independents, but in a world in need of radical change, we need to dig up the roots of what we perceive as being inspiring, and why. Because referencing mega brands as ‘adjacent’ is holding founders—and the industry—back from more relevant and fruitful growth.
I argue that conglomerate names should be reviewed—and largely erased—from adjacency charts, pitch decks, and presentations to avoid clouding your path to creating a unique and relevant brand. Acknowledging the irrelevance of conglomerate companies to one’s work as an independent business will open doors to more personal, innovative, and encouraging ideas—rather than acting as a constant reminder of how far off you are from their level of success.
If you are truly interested in playing a positive part in the future of the fashion industry (and staying sane), it makes little sense to place these household names in line with the dreams and goals of your company. By putting more realistic muses on the pedestal, you will feel the perception of your work positively shifting and new solutions emerging.
IN PART 2
I will share a simple exercise, which I designed and love to do with my clients, to help you prune your axis brand adjacencies and fuel new ideas. Subscribe to Advance Copy to enjoy Part 2 of this post and benefit from the full-suite of bespoke services tailored to the needs of pragmatic thinkers in fashion.